Sport Climbing Combined at the Olympics: An Informative Overview

Sport climbing made its Olympic debut at the Tokyo 2020 Games (held in 2021 due to the COVID-19 pandemic), marking a significant milestone for the climbing community. Since then, it has continued to evolve, gaining popularity among athletes and spectators alike. The event known as Sport Climbing Combined was introduced to showcase the sport’s diversity and athleticism, combining three distinct disciplines into one medal event. This article offers a detailed look at what Sport Climbing Combined entails, its format, evolution, key athletes, and its role in the Olympics.

What is Sport Climbing?

Sport climbing is a form of rock climbing performed on artificial walls with fixed holds for hands and feet. In the Olympic format, it is divided into three primary disciplines:

  1. Speed Climbing – A head-to-head race to the top of a 15-meter wall, identical in layout worldwide.

  2. Bouldering – Athletes solve short, complex climbing “problems” on a wall about 4.5 meters high without ropes.

  3. Lead Climbing – Climbers attempt to climb as high as possible on a wall over 15 meters in height within a set time.

Each discipline tests a different aspect of a climber’s ability—speed, problem-solving, power, endurance, and technique.

Sport Climbing Combined Format at Tokyo 2020

At the Tokyo Olympics, all three climbing disciplines were combined into a single medal event per gender. Athletes competed in each of the three disciplines, and their final score was calculated by multiplying their rankings in each:

Final Score = Rank in Speed × Rank in Bouldering × Rank in Lead

The athlete with the lowest combined score won the gold medal.

This format was met with some criticism from the climbing community, as most athletes tend to specialize in one or two disciplines rather than all three. However, it was a necessary compromise to fit the sport into the Olympic schedule and introduce it to a global audience.

Changes for Paris 2024: A Split Format

Based on feedback and the desire to better represent the sport, the Paris 2024 Olympics will feature a revised format. There will be two separate medal events:

  1. Speed Climbing (Individual event)

  2. Boulder & Lead Combined

This change allows speed specialists to compete independently, while bouldering and lead climbing—often requiring overlapping skills—are combined into a more balanced and representative format.

Why Combine Events?

In Tokyo, combining the three disciplines into one was done primarily to fit within the Olympic framework, which limited the number of medal events. It was also intended to introduce the full scope of sport climbing to audiences unfamiliar with the sport.

For Paris 2024, the revised combined event (Boulder + Lead) offers a more athlete-friendly and fair format. It highlights climbers’ tactical intelligence, endurance, and technique over raw speed.

Scoring System for Paris 2024 Boulder & Lead Combined

Instead of multiplying rankings, the new system uses a point-based method:

  • Bouldering: Points awarded based on number of tops and zones achieved, with attempts also considered.

  • Lead: Points given based on how high the climber reaches on the route.

These points are added together to determine the final ranking, making the scoring more transparent and easier to follow.

Notable Athletes in Olympic Sport Climbing

  • Janja Garnbret (Slovenia): Gold medalist in Women’s Combined at Tokyo 2020, known for her dominance in both bouldering and lead climbing.

  • Alberto Ginés López (Spain): Surprise gold medalist in the Men’s Combined at Tokyo, showcasing consistency across all disciplines.

  • Adam Ondra (Czech Republic): One of the most well-known climbers globally, especially in lead climbing and outdoor ascents.

  • Shauna Coxsey (UK): A prominent bouldering specialist and advocate for climbing’s inclusion in the Olympics.

Training for Combined Climbing

Training for a combined event requires exceptional versatility. Athletes must balance:

  • Explosiveness and fast-twitch muscle training for speed climbing.

  • Problem-solving and core strength for bouldering.

  • Endurance and pacing strategies for lead climbing.

This multidisciplinary training regimen is intense and demands a comprehensive approach to both physical and mental preparation.

Impact of Olympic Inclusion

The Olympic spotlight has significantly increased the visibility and popularity of climbing worldwide. Key impacts include:

  • Growth in youth participation and indoor climbing facilities.

  • Increased sponsorship and funding for athletes.

  • Greater media coverage and public interest in competitive climbing.

It has also sparked discussions about how to preserve the sport's spirit and community roots while adapting to mainstream attention.

Conclusion

Sport Climbing Combined has been a dynamic and evolving part of the Olympic program. While the format introduced in Tokyo served as a valuable starting point, the updated structure for Paris 2024 aims to better reflect the athletes’ strengths and the sport’s essence. As sport climbing continues to grow globally, its presence in the Olympics not only inspires a new generation of climbers but also helps the world appreciate the blend of athleticism, strategy, and artistry that defines the sport.

Whether you're a seasoned climber or a curious viewer, the Olympic stage offers an exciting window into this fast-growing and visually captivating sport.

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